HORSE FLOAT ELECTRIC BRAKES - ARE YOUR BRAKES WORKING?

ARE YOUR HORSE FLOAT ELECTRIC BRAKES WORKING? DID YOU KNOW YOU NEED A BRAKE CONTROLLER FOR ELECTRIC BRAKES?












I have noticed a few posts going around on Facebook about terrible accidents that have happened involving horse floats, usually leading to the tragic loss of a beloved pet.

I recently had a customer come in that did not know how the trailer brakes worked on their float and were inadvertently travelling to shows with brakes that were not working at all. This prompted me to write this post and hopefully get horse float owners to ask themselves when it was that they last had their horse float brakes checked. Horse owners spend a great deal of money looking after their horses and float maintenance is just as important.

Unfortunately most owners assume that since the horse float doesn’t do all that many kilometres, that the brakes will not wear and do not need to be checked. Like anything mechanical, brakes need regular checking/servicing to ensure they are working efficiently and unfortunately we don’t realise how important those brakes really are until it’s too late.

So here are some questions to ask yourself:

• Do you know if you have mechanical brakes or electric brakes? If you have electric brakes then you should have an electric brake controller situated in the tow vehicle.

• Do you know how this controller works? Most electric brake controllers work the same way, but do you know how to set the gain correctly? Or do you just leave the gain in the same position and hook up and go?

• Do you know if your brakes have a break-away system with a back up battery? Some trailers over a certain weight will have what is called a ‘Break-away’ system. This system has a 12v battery pack that applies the electric brakes if the trailer breaks away from the vehicle. Do you know how to test this system? Did you know that the back-up battery should be replaced every two years?

• Can you apply the brakes manually to check if they are being applied? Do you know how? This is a really simple test that can give a quick indication that part of the brake system is working.

If you have hydraulic mechanical brakes, do you know the last time the hydraulic system was bled?

Like cars, the brake system should be flushed every two years to ensure that moisture does not build up in the brake components which will lead to corrosion and poor braking performance.

When was the last time the brakes were adjusted?

Just like a car, trailers should be serviced on a regular basis to check for wheel bearing play and ensure that the brakes are properly adjusted. Not all types of brakes need adjusting but it doesn’t hurt to check.

If you don't know the answer to these questions then perhaps give us a call on (08) 9452 7972

Gavin Craske
Current Tech Automotive
www.currenttech.com.au

Posted 17/11/2016

interVOLT DCC Pro Review

interVOLT DCC Pro Review

Model: DCC1225ACK-RP (Remote Display Model Reviewed)

I’ve been meaning to sit down and write this review about the interVOLT DCC Pro DC-DC Battery Charger for some time and in no way do I have any affiliation with interVOLT. I would also like to be upfront and admit that I may have been a little biased and one-eyed when it came to the Redarc DC-DC Battery Chargers and have sold and installed many Redarc DC-DC chargers but in saying that I have also used previous interVOLT products and I have always been impressed with the quality of their products. So with that, I finally purchased the interVOLT DCC Pro to satisfy my curiosity and put it to the test.

The first thing that draws my attention to the product brochure is the ability to have a remote display connected to the charger to display charging voltage, charging amperage and main battery voltage in the cabin as well as making changes to the charger configuration. When I open the box the first thing that comes to my attention is the typical construction I have come to expect from interVOLT products and the DCC Pro doesn’t let me down. The weight of the unit coupled with the ample cooling fins gives this unit the appearance that it is well made and considerable time and energy has been put into the design.

The unit comes with a 3m cord to connect the remote display to the charger and while this may suit many installations, it wasn’t long enough for our use on the headboard of a 79 Series Dual Cab Land Cruiser and we needed to order a 6m cord separately. I’d personally like to see the unit packaged with a 5m cord which would be ample for most installations. Another area of concern is the size of the cable plugs, they seem to have that look that they may present a problem if unplugged too often due to the size of the pins and cable but in all honesty this is just an opinion and I have no evidence to suggest that it won’t stand up to the task and time will tell if this really is a concern.

The charger is well made and of solid construction with a nice cover (with a status LED in the centre)  to conceal all cable connections which are connected utilising screw terminals, no need for splicing or soldering of cables. One factor that may present itself when installing is the height of the unit, having installed countless Redarc BCDC’s I’ve become accustomed to the ability to install the unit’s down in areas that don’t have much room but for most installations this won’t cause too much of an issue.

The charger is packed with a range of features:

·         Soft start boost mode – prevents damage to batteries and equipment

·         8 stage charging

·         Voltage sensing or ignition mode charging activation (For ECU controlled alternators)

·         5 user selectable battery types to change the charging algorithm to suit the battery

·         LED glow ring to indicate charger status

·         Ability to connect two separate chargers to the one remote display

·         Solar capable, direct connection from solar panel - 250w (no regulator required)

·         Electrical and thermal overload protection

·         Reverse polarity protection

·         Stainless steel terminals

 The charger does what most DC-DC chargers do and it does it well although I would love to see higher amperage versions like other brands. The instructions are comprehensive, easy to read and they give step by step set up instructions for setting the configuration, which are a breath of fresh air when you compare them to the instructions that come with Ctek chargers. While there isn’t a set RRP to go off, the interVOLT DCC Pro is being sold around the $545 mark and although it may be more expensive than what you can pick up a Redarc or Projecta unit for, the inclusion of the remote display unit and the quality of construction makes it all worthwhile. I also like the ability to customise things and this can be done quickly and easily via the remote display compared with other DC-DC chargers. interVOLT offer a Two year warranty on the charger and having produced electronic products since 2001 I’m sure their charger will stand the test of time and provide a fantastic alternative to other DC-DC chargers out there.

Happy Charging,

Gavin Craske

Current Tech Automotive

U10/95 Kelvin Rd

Maddington, W.A. 6109

www.currenttech.com.au

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Can you afford to have your car off the road?

Analysts have revealed that the 2016/2017 State Budget will mean that average WA households will need to find an extra $160 per year to cover bills, with the main increases in electricity and water bills.

The growing cost of living can make it more and more difficult to make ends meet, and sometimes it is necessary to cut down on luxury items.  Sometimes, car maintenance can be a casualty of cutting costs in households.  But, it is important to remember that your vehicle is not a luxury item, it is an important necessity for your family.  Can you really afford to have your car off the road?

Getting your car serviced regularly can seem like an expense you can do without, but as these case studies of some actual customers show…cutting the cost of regular maintenance for your vehicle can end up costing you a whole lot more.

 

Case Study 1

Our young married customers were awaiting the birth of their first child and were trying to save as much money as they could before they were reduced to one income.  The husband was self employed and drove a diesel van for his business.  While money was tight, they skipped one scheduled service, thinking it would not hurt. 

However, at 62,000km their diesel van broke down.  The van was still under warranty, so they towed it to their dealer, who advised that they were going to need a new motor, as the engine oil had run dry and the motor had seized.  Due to not maintaining their scheduled logbook services, the customers had voided their warranty, and had to pay for the new motor at a cost of over $6,500. 

Had the customers realized the damage they were doing to the engine, they could have paid a lot smaller amount for their service, and saved themselves a lot of money!

Case Study 2

Changing your spark plugs can seem like an expensive addition to your servicing schedule.  It can be tempting to skip that part of the service, and “put it off until next time”.  However, spark plugs are a very important component of your car, providing the “spark” for ignition.

If your spark plugs are not changed within the manufacturers guidelines, and they begin to deteriorate, the voltage required to fire them increases. This increased voltage puts much greater stress on ignition coils and wires, and can cause ignition failure – at a much greater cost to your pocket!

For example, a 2012 Toyota Corolla requires its spark plugs to be changed at a total cost of $150.    Compare this to 4 spark plugs and ignition coils (at $150 each because you waited too long) could cost anywhere from $400, maybe more. As you can see, changing plugs before the ignition fails makes very good economic sense!

If you are trying to keep a rein on your car costs, consider at least having an oil and oil filter change every six months.  With prices starting from $160.00 for a minor service and full safety check, we can advise you of any urgent items that need replacing, and keep your car running smoothly in the meantime.   If you plan on keeping your vehicle past the warranty, having an engine oil change and inspection done at least twice a year or every 10,000 km is cheap insurance. 

Wheel Alignments

Wheel Alignments

Wheel alignments are one of the most important maintenance items for your vehicle, as not only does the process prolong the life of your tyres and suspension, but misaligned wheels can also compromise your car’s safety.

It is important to have your wheel alignment checked whenever you have them rotated, and of course whenever you replace your tyres.

When driving your car, some signs that your wheels require an alignment are:

• Your steering doesn’t feel right
• Your car is pulling to the left or the right
• Your steering wheel is shuddering or vibrating

There are many ways that your wheels can become misaligned, and over time even a slight misalignment can cause big problems.

• Road hazards – hitting the curb, driving over potholes, or bumping into parking barriers
• Minor Accidents & Bingles – even small bumps in your car can cause the wheels to be knocked out of alignment, even if you can’t notice it from the outside
• Wear and tear – as your car ages, rubber components start cracking and lose their elasticity, which can cause the ball and socket joints to develop looseness.

Wheel Alignment vs. Wheel Balancing

As well as wheel alignment services, we also offer wheel balancing. Different to a wheel alignment, which corrects misaligned angles and keeps your car from veering to one side or another, wheel balancing corrects any uneven distribution of weight in the wheels (which can lead to vibration, excessive tyre wear, damage to suspension and other problems). During a wheel balancing service, we mount steel weights to the inside or outside of wheels to balance the wheel assembly.

Click here to book a wheel alignment or wheel balancing service today or call us on (08) 9452 7972, and protect your tyres.

TIPS TO HELP YOU AVOID BEING "RIPPED OFF" BY YOUR MECHANIC

Do you dread the thought of dealing with your mechanic?

It’s common for consumers to feel nervous about taking their car in to a mechanic for general servicing and repairs, and rightly so. Most people lack the knowledge and understanding when it comes to cars to know when a mechanic is telling the truth or trying to rip you off. Although there are some poor workshops out there, there are plenty of great ones too. Hopefully by reading this article I can help avoid some of the anguish and unnecessary repair bills, keeping your car in tip top shape.

• Word of Mouth – How do you find a trustworthy mechanic? Ask around, friends and family will no doubt have already used a workshop they are happy with.

• Check for a Repairers Business Licence – Not that this ensures a trustworthy mechanic, but it does ensure that they have complied with the necessary licensing requirements. Businesses can be searched here:
http://www.commerce.wa.gov.au/…/consumer-protection-licence…

• Do some research – A quick flick through Google can often lead you to find out if the issue with your particular car is a common problem or if it is simply routine maintenance, there will be a wealth of information to ensure you know what your mechanic is talking about.

• Go Independent – Why? There may be reasons for using a dealership over independent workshops and vice versa. Usually independent workshops are cheaper (due to lower operating costs) and rely heavily on repeat business over a longer term to ensure a healthy business. Independent workshops will go that little bit further to ensure their customers keep coming back and you usually get to deal directly with the owner themselves.

• Ask for evidence – Ask for your old parts back, I doubt any workshop will mind holding on to your old parts for you and explaining why and where they play a role in your car. Ask them to show you where they go in the vehicle (within reason) so you have an understanding. If the workshop in question can’t find time to explain this to you then they obviously don’t want your business.

• Get a Quote – Ask for a quote to be done before any work is done on your car. If it’s a routine service then a quote should be provided for the service schedule that was booked and a quote should be provided for any extra repairs needed.

• Get a second opinion – If the quotation seems too excessive or you are simply unsure, don’t be shy in taking the vehicle elsewhere for a second opinion. This could save you big dollars.

• Beware of the upsell – Beware of workshops that consistently try to upsell services or find a large list of faults every time your car enters the shop. Transmission flushes, power steering flushes, emission servicing, throttle body cleaning and injector cleaning are some of the more common upsell items that many shops use. While some of these items may be required from time-to-time, for the most part, if the vehicle is running well and has never missed a beat then be wary of the common and unnecessary upsell.

• Ask Yourself – Ask yourself if the workshop really cares about you and your car. Look for the little things that show you they go that little bit further – such as:
- Washing and/or vacuuming the car
- Tyre Shine
- Complimentary air fresher or fragrance
- Complimentary wiper blades
- Service reminders by text or email
- Windows cleaned
- Old parts kept for viewing
- Communication prior to performing extra repairs

Finally, here is a quick list of things you can do to help your workshop which will show your mechanic you care and they will more than likely go that little bit further for you.

1. Clean out your car – No mechanic likes rummaging through a boot load of junk to check the spare tyre or a glove box so full it takes 5 minutes to find the log books, and most mechanics will probably just close the compartment and walk away.

2. Avoid booking for a Friday – Most shops are already flat out on a Friday and might tend to rush things to get the jobs out the door before the weekend. Booking earlier in the week is the safer option.

3. Don’t ignore the warning signs – If your car has a dash light on or is making an unusual noise then get it in as soon as possible. Ignoring the warning signs can mean the difference between a few dollars or a major repair bill.

4. If you can’t make the appointment then call and cancel with as much notice as possible. Simply not turning up without a quick call doesn’t allow the workshop to fill the vacant spot and can cost them in lost income for the day.

5. If you have problems with your car, try and take notice of when the problem occurs. By giving the mechanic as much information as possible you will make their job easier in diagnosing the issue and perhaps even save them time, in turn, saving you money.

For more information, visit our website:  www.currenttech.com.au

https://www.facebook.com/currenttechauto/

A BRIEF EXPLANATION OF DUAL BATTERY SYSTEMS

A BRIEF EXPLANATION OF DUAL BATTERY SYSTEMS

On every 4x4 forum I come across, someone is always asking ‘Which dual battery system do I choose?’ No doubt they have read through several online articles only to become even more confused about the options available for their 4x4 set-up. So with this article I will briefly explain the different systems that I believe to be the most beneficial to the everyday 4x4 owner.

The first question I ask people when they ask how much a dual battery system will cost is:

How much is your budget?

Some people see this as a marketing ploy but honestly there is no point in me trying to sell you a dual battery system built around the Redarc BCDC1240 charger when your budget is $800, as the charge unit alone is over $450 not including battery, cables, battery tray etc.

The second question is:

What are you using the system for?

There is no point in having a $1700 system in your vehicle when you only plan on using it twice a year or to simply run a fridge overnight, unless you feel that is really what you need. You will also need to know what you will be running off it and the wattage of each of these items.

If a customer can answer these two questions then they are already well on their way to designing the system they require.

I will break down the three most popular systems as follows:

System 1 - Manual dual battery switch

This is perhaps the most basic dual battery system available and is built around a manual battery switch (such as Narva 61090) where the user selects the battery required to be used and/or charged or both. A very simple system that works well however the switch and wiring required is quite cumbersome. This system is what I call a ‘direct parallel system’ (DPS). There is also the downside of the user having to remember to switch the master switch to the desired setting, which if forgotten could inadvertently drain both batteries by accident.

·        Good for high current situations, winch etc.

·        Easy to use.

·        Relatively cheap although larger cable size can become expensive over larger runs.

·        Not recommended if different battery types are being used together.

·        Can jump start vehicle if auxiliary battery is charged.

System 2 – Voltage sensitive relay/solenoid

This is a favourite amongst most 4X4 owners, utilising a solenoid (such as the Redarc SBI12) due to the relatively low cost of the solenoid and the ease of installation. This simple solenoid (also a DPS) detects when your main (start) battery has reached a high state of charge and then closes the contacts to join the two batteries together to start charging the auxiliary battery. These solenoids have served the industry well for a number of years but with advances in battery technology they have since been less desirable when using different battery types together.

·        Simple.

·        Cheap.

·        May not work with newer vehicles that utilise variable voltage alternator output.

·        Can also cater for jump starting.

·        Can also be used where higher current demand is required.

·        Can also be used for winch applications.

System 3 – The DC to DC Charger

The DC to DC Charger has really changed dual battery systems in the last few years, allowed us to do so much more with our dual battery systems and take care of our auxiliary batteries so much better. Put simply, the DC-DC charger has allowed us to charge batteries efficiently, and electrically isolate the main battery and the main charge system (the alternator). The main benefit of the DC-DC charger is the ability to be able to charge different battery types using pre-set charge algorithms selected for the battery type being used. This ensures that the battery being charged is charged at the optimum rate which means it is charged as high as possible (some batteries require different charge rates to reach full capacity). The other benefit is that electrically both batteries are separated and if either battery fails or starts to degrade then it won’t compromise the other battery, as the DPS type may.

·        Maximises battery life by charging to optimum level.

·        Expensive.

·        Set and forget – no user input required.

·        Current output is limited to capability of unit.

·        Can’t be used for jump starting alone.

·        Capable of supporting small amounts of volt drop.

In both of the DP systems, if one battery starts to fail or degrade then it will start to drag the other battery down with it. If different battery types are used in the DP systems then this will also cause premature battery failure (over time) and it’s always recommended that if one battery fails in this instance, then both batteries should be replaced at the same time. In saying that, if matching battery types (preferably make and model) are used in the DP system then this will maximise battery life. Yes of course everyone will know someone that has used the DPS type, never had to change a battery and will never want to part with the money to buy a DC-DC charger. Each system has its strengths, weaknesses and its place in the dual battery world but I will never recommend using different battery types together in a DPS type set-up.

This article was never intended to explain dual battery systems at length but rather, give the reader an idea of what is out there and how it might benefit them. Time again we have had customers come in saying they got a dual battery system installed but they have no idea what they paid for or how it works. If you don’t know what you paid for then how do you know what the system will do or if it’s right for you? Some customers have come in thinking they want a super dooper dual battery system that could cost upwards of $800 only to be sent away with a Arkpak type battery box because that is all that they require to run their fridge for a few hours or overnight while fishing every now and again.

If I have missed something or you feel something else might be more relevant then don’t hesitate to contact me.

Regards,

Gavin.

Current Tech Automotive

www.currenttech.com.au

https://www.facebook.com/currenttechauto/

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